FAQ

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[av_toggle title=’How long does it take to have a suit made?’ tags=”]
Generally, the timeframe from the time you place your order (which includes finalizing all details, and payment) to the time it mails out to you is approximately 3-4 weeks depending on how busy we are at that moment.  If you need it sooner, it’s possible to arrange a “cut in front of line” option for a small surcharge. This will cut the leadtime down to about 2 weeks.  Once your suit has mailed out we cannot take responsibility for the transit time incurred.  Most orders within the continental USA will take 2-3 days (all orders are shipped via USPS priority mail with tracking).  Orders placed outside of USA (Canada, Europe, Asia, etc), the delivery time is not something we can guarantee as there are many possible points that could create a delay (ie: customs clearance, the reliability of your country’s mail system etc)   The timeframe only applies to the time that we mail your garment out to you, not the day that you will actually have it in hand.
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[av_toggle title=’Do you do rush orders?’ tags=”]
Yes, a rush order is considered a finished timeframe of 1.5 – 2 weeks before it is mailed to you (and thereupon the appropriate transit time applies).  Normally we do rush orders that have a “cut in front of line” surcharge, just to keep things fair for those who ordered before you and are diligently waiting for his own suit to be finished.  The Cut in Front of Line surcharge is $60 on top of the suit price.  We ship via USPS priority mail which is 2-3 days for most areas (next day if you are within LA county) which is included in the price of your suit.  However if you need next day delivery via FedEx/UPS courier, we can arrange that at the cost of shipping.  One caveat of rush orders is that if you are planning to wear your suit for a specific event, for example, the following day or two after you receive your suit, keep in mind that you will probably have to get some shipping wrinkles pressed, and if you require any adjustment tailoring, or in the rare case, there is some kind of major fit issue, you probably will not have time to sort that out, so a rush order for an event is oftentimes a “what comes out of the box is what you have to wear”, but we always try to get things right the first time so that you can wear your new suit right out of the box.
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[av_toggle title=’How Do I Get Measured?’ tags=”]
Due to the wildly inaccurate measurements we receive from those who went to a professional tailor, we feel you can do a very accurate SELF MEASUREMENT yourself with a tape measure and a friend. Make sure all measurements are taken snug, not tight, and definitely not loose. The fewer articles of clothing you measure over, the better.  In general, wear a tshirt and underwear and measure over that for the most accuracy.

We recommend taking multiple sets of measurements just to make sure you are getting the same results each time. While having your chest measured, it is important to not be looking down, which is a natural reaction for most, to see what the tape is reading. Look straight ahead and stand naturally, and DO NOT overexaggerate your posture. Looking downward will result in a smaller than accurate measurement.  Exaggerated postures will also create an inaccurate measurement as will excessively sucking in your gut.

If you do go to a tailor’s to get measured, we still recommend doing a set yourself and comparing the two. It’s amazing how different a tailor’s measure and your own self measure can result. And most of the time your measurement is actually the accurate one.

Why are tailors’ measurements so often inaccurate? Many pad the measurement since they are probably used to a looser fit being “correct”. Sometimes they give you an interpreted measurement, meaning rather than the raw measure off the body, they give you the size that the garment should have. If you do go to a tailor, make sure he is giving you raw measurements off the body, done snugly.
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[av_toggle title=’What if my Suit doesn’t fit?’ tags=”]
This of course, is the bane of any online “sight unseen” MTM suit program.  Given the plethora of variables involved in producing a suit, we feel that you should look at any online tailoring program that promises “a perfect fit” or anything like that, to be highly suspect and just marketing gimmickry.  Just by its nature, any sight unseen MTM suit will have its share of risks involved.  A good illustration over the many years we’ve met with clients, is that some guys, who measure the same from head to toe, and same height, can actually fit into different size suits from each other, even though on paper, they should be the same sizing.  There are nuances to physiology/posture/etc that can create different fits for otherwise the same sized person.  That said, we’ve gotten good at “reading minds” and sussing out the correct fitting for you just based on your measurements.

Secondly, we can only make based on measurements given so we ask those submitting measurements to be sure of them as much as possible. Ideally, TAKING A FEW SETS OF MEASUREMENTS for those who are novices at this is the best thing to do. This way you can see if you are getting consistent measurements without much discrepancy. Providing more info on other brands (jeans, suits, shirts etc) you wear is always helpful in getting a full picture of your build and proportions.

If you do not readily know your jacket sleeve length, we ask you to get nonfunctional sleeve cuffs that can be easily adjusted. Basically, if you have to ask how to measure sleeve length, then it”s better to get nonfunctional cuffs for your first suit.  If you are adamant about having functional cuffs, we usually see what your provided sleeve length is, compare it to the average length for someone your height, and if there is a huge discrepancy we will point that out and see how you would like to proceed.  One thing to keep in mind, it is actually possible to lengthen functional cuff sleeves up to 1″ longer (tho a new buttonhole will probably have to be cut/sewn to fill in the extra space), but most functional cuff sleeves cannot be shortened, other than maybe 1/4″ at most.  So there is more margin of error to have it fit slightly too short, than too long.

Even with a MTM process (and even full bespoke), many finished suits may require fine tuning that can be accomplished with your local tailor. There is rarely such thing as “the perfect fit”, especially as everyone has a different image in mind when they think is this “perfect fit”.

I always recommend gentlemen to have their trouser inseam adjusted after receipt of suit. Most provide an inseam length that IMO will be too long. Depending on the shoes you wear, where the trouser waist sits on your hips, etc will all determine the correct inseam so it is possible to have different sets of trousers that look like they have the same inseam, but in reality can all be slightly different from each other. But it is the easiest/cheapest alteration to have done, and makes a big difference to how the suit silhouette looks.

If there is an obvious flaw in material or construction we will make sure you are properly sorted out and the problem fixed without any cost to you. If the problem is due to erroneous measurement on the client”s part, we will work with you to solve the problem at the least cost to you as possible. But we are not liable for blatantly erroneous measurements that are provided to us, resulting in an ill-fitting garment. Unfortunately that is the risk of a sight unseen MTO program.

At the end of the day, we do not want anyone to be disappointed or upset due to an ill fitting garment, and we will always go the extra mile to make sure you are completely satisfied, one way or another.
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[av_toggle title=’Do you do CMT (Customer provided fabric)’ tags=”]
Yes, but only after you have ordered a suit using our house fabrics and are certain the pattern we have drafted for you fits how you like. We do not do CMT on first suits until we gauge that the sizing and fit we have for you is correct and to your liking.  This way, if we have to remake any part of your garment, we can do so without running into the risk of not being able to get more of your custom sourced fabric.  Price-wise, there is a lower price point to the suit, but we do add in a handling/shipping charge for your cloth, but the final price with us (the cost of cloth you purchased not withstanding) will be less than it would be using our house cloth.
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[av_toggle title=’I am local to Los Angeles, can I meet you to take my measurements and look at fabrics?’ tags=”]
Yes I will meet with prospective clients to take their measurements and show fabric and suit samples. At the moment, sizing runs up to 46″ measured chest only, if your chest measures around larger than 46″ you will be outside of my size range. Meetups are done in San Gabriel area of SoCal (approx 10-15 min from downtown) on Saturday mornings at 9am or after.  If you are available during the week from 8am – 4pm you can come by my business and I can measure you and show samples from here. There is no commitment to purchase if you meet for a measurement/sample showing, and measurement meetups are free of charge. Most Saturday meetups are booked about 1-2 weeks in advance so keep that in mind if you are going to be here from out of town. All local meetups are done at my discretion of availability, so not all days are guaranteed to be available. And I stress punctuality, so there is a 10 min grace period for being late. If you know you will be late please call 5-10 minutes prior to the meeting time. If you are going to be more than 15-20 minutes late I will probably tell you we need to reschedule.  It is encouraged that you take your traffic patterns of where you’re coming from, and plan accordingly to arrive 5-10 min before our scheduled appointment time.  The average meetup takes about 15-25 minutes depending on how many questions one has.
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[av_toggle title=’What suit sizes do you make?’ tags=”]
There is nearly no “too small” size.  As for the upper end, the largest sizing we accommodate is a measured 46″ around the chest.  The reason we do not make a larger size, initially Thick as Thieves was made for slimmer men who could not find anything that fit correctly OTR as everything was geared towards larger sized guys (even in smaller sizes).  We do no feel our pattern grades well past a 46″ chest so therefore we do not offer anything larger, in order to maintain our aesthetic and quality of fit.
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[av_toggle title=’What won’t you make?’ tags=”]
Please do not email with photos or links asking if I can copy “____”. Thick as Thieves has its own aesthetic, if you are looking to copy something then I suggest getting the actual maker rather than trying to copy it. Or use one of many other “internet tailors” out there who will make anything you want. No, there are none I can recommend as I have not personally used any.  We don’t do 3-piece suits (with vest).  Why? I have never liked vests, and our underlying motto has always been “if I wouldn’t wear it myself, we won’t sell it”.
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[av_toggle title=’Do you give refunds if I don’t like my suit?’ tags=”]
As this is a custom process, we do not offer refunds.  However we are willing to work with whatever we need to do to make your suit fit to your liking.

If you ordered online, sight unseen, and picked a fabric you think you will like, and in reality do not like the fabric whether the color wasn’t to your expectation, you didn’t like the fabric hand etc, we’re sorry but that is not a refundable situation.  We do offer to mail out free sample swatches of fabrics if you need to see/feel in real life before ordering.

If you are extremely concerned about fit, it is our opinion that ANY sight unseen MTM suit program will probably not be to your satisfaction and that you should pursue a true bespoke process that involves multiple fittings.
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[av_toggle title=’Can I customize from within your default design?’ tags=”]
Thick as Thieves offers a very specific aesthetic and feel that the best results are those that don’t deviate from it, however we are happy to slightly alter the design to accommodate more conservative clients.

  • Notch lapel width can be widened up to 3″ (4″ on larger end sizes). We will not make notch lapels wider than 3″ unless your jacket is the largest fit (44-46) in which case lapels can be widened to 4″ to preserve balance. Peak lapels, due to their shape, can be made to 3.75″ (4.5″ for size 44-6) wide. Wider lapels than this are antithetical to the Thick as Thieves aesthetic.
  • Jacket length can be lengthened or shortened. Contrary to popular belief, there is no standard jacket length. Length is determined by the wearer”s height and arm length and is intended to be shorter than normal, ending approx 2-3″ below the wrist level. We will lengthen the jacket to be closer to normal by request. (Usually by adding 1-2″ to the length). Button placement is done in relation to the jacket length so if we lengthen (shorten) the jacket, the buttoning points will be adjusted to reflect the change in cut. Some gentlemen have longer/shorter arms in relation to their torso, in which case a “what will look best” approach is taken, so some jackets will have a shorter/longer length than what would normally be done to accommodate such physiques.
  • Trousers only have one rear pocket on wearer’s right side. We can add a 2nd upon request.
  • Trousers have belt loops. We can put side tabs (either buckle or button) instead of loops. We can also add suspender/braces buttons inside the waistband if you plan to wear button braces. Keep in mind for the side tab option, buckle side tabs are functional in actually tightening the waist as needed, but the 2 button side tab is purely aesthetic, and while the side tabs do function (as in, you can move the tab and latch onto each button), they cannot be used in a real life application to tighten the waist (since small incremental adjustments are not possible with button side tabs). That said, most opt for the button side tab option rather than buckle side tab.
  • Ticket pocket on jackets can be removed so you only have the 2 main pockets at the side.
  • 3 Button jackets can be made with a 3/roll2 lapel that is intended to button at middle only.
  • You can mix/match features from within house designs. ie: You can have a peak lapel one button jacket with horizontal pockets, or a 2 button notch lapel jacket with angled pockets, as 2 examples.  A popular hybrid is a traditional porportion cut jacket, but with the house cut trouser and more leg taper.

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[av_toggle title=’What are some popular customizations that clients do?’ tags=”]

  • Angled pockets on jacket (Hacking pockets)
  • Patch pockets (with or without flap) for side and/or breast pockets
  • Topstitched lapels/pockets (swelled seams) which are standard for all patch pockets
  • Single vent (double vent is default)
  • “Sack” style construction (undarted), but this method of construction means less jacket waist tapering, so recommended for those with more columnar build (6″ drop or less), not for those who have a large chest – waist difference.
  • Side tab adjuster to replace belt loops, either buckle or 2-button style.
  • Cuffs on trousers (we like 2″ cuffs)
  • Unpadded jacket shoulders (by default we use a small amount of padding).  Keep in mind if you do not have fairly square shoulders nor good posture, that unpadded jackets might not look the best on you.  Most guys tend to need a small amount of padding in our experience.  On the flip side, we can also do heavier padding if you feel your physiology requires that to maintain a good balance.

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